Have you heard of the term "patterns mills"? These are shopfronts that quickly produce a pattern without any sort of testing or vetting, and then put it on the market with an AI-generated or stolen image for a very tempting price. Patterns produced this way are rampant in the cross-stitching world. However, I've recently noticed an uptick in these types of storefronts in the quilting and foundation paper piecing world. Since I'm well versed in FPP patterns, I would like to describe what an AI-generated quilt pattern looks like as well as provide other suspicious giveaways. AI will only get better, so while these mistakes are dead giveaways now, they might be fixed in the future. FPP patterns seem to be easier to replicate in AI than traditionally pieced patterns, which is why I will focus on FPP in this blogpost. However, you can apply the same clues to any sort of craft pattern (or really anything) you can buy online.
Important: AI-generated images are not prohibited on Etsy. However, within their policies they state that you must disclose if you used AI within your listing, and these shops do not have that disclosure.
Below is a listing for a wolf face FPP pattern. When you first look at it, does anything seem suspicious?
First, I would like to draw your attention to the scissors in the bottom left of the photo. These scissors are physically impossible to use and are literally melting into the yellow cutting mat. The lines of this cutting mat are unresolved, as are the lines on the green cutting mat in the bottom right corner. These are your first giveaways.
However, not all images have background sewing items that look a little funny. Let's take a look at the actual "completed quilt."
The first thing I notice is that the only background seam line (from this apparently foundation paper pieced quilt) is the one in the top left corner. The seam is merely hinted at and does not go all the way to the edge. Additionally, I notice that the eye is too round. One could argue that the cover photo is merely an enhanced version of the completed quilt, but there are no completed quilt photos in the listing.
Another clue for identifying AI generated quilt images is that there are a ton of colors/prints used. The prints in this image seem nebulous and the prints around the eye whiskers (?) lose a lot of fidelity. The individual fabrics themselves do not have consistency.
In the image above, the things I notice are that there are curved seams within the gray and white colors. A typical FPP pattern would not have curved piecing interspersed between regular straight seam piecing. Also, piecing lines that are useless, especially visible in the bluish-gray piece on the left. The amount of piecing within that patch does not make sense.
Below you will see another listing from a different Etsy seller.
From afar, it looks really good. Plus, the seller has great reviews! And it's a Bestseller! But let us take a closer look...
The first thing that sticks out to me is how the whiskers of the lion are resolved. You can see where they fade into the muzzle of the lion without a realistic piecing line. Some of the patches are straight up "smeary" and wrinkly, a telltale sign of AI. The program does not know how to accurately render the design so it creates an approximation. These are things that are hard to see unless you zoom in.
Below is a listing for a legitimate lion FPP pattern from designer Pride and Joy Quilting so you can see the difference. It is clear that the first image is an actual completed quilt top.
Beyond the AI-generated cover quilts, I'd also like to cover other signs of a pattern generated from a pattern mill.
- For the lion pattern, the cost is only $8.63. This is very cheap for what is supposed to be a full sized quilt pattern with a multitude of templates.
- Both of these sellers have very generic names. While not an immediate cause for concern, I recommend being skeptical.
- There are no actual completed quilt images within the listing.
- Both of them are considered "Bestsellers" on Etsy, but the shop with the wolf pattern only has 10 reviews. It makes me wonder about the disparity between "buyers" and reviewers.
- The 5 star reviews for the lion pattern are extremely generic and talk only about "how much their friend Lisa will enjoy the pattern" or "how easy it was to download." These are not helpful for understanding the quality of the actual product. The 1 star reviews are way more descriptive about the issues the pattern has. This makes me wonder about fake reviews.
- Both of these patterns include a full layout of the FPP diagram within the listing. I personally would never do this and I don't know many designers who would.
- The lion pattern says this within its description: "Before making a purchase, we'd like to inform you about some important aspects. The product stands out for its template, design, and print quality, serving as a valuable tool for sewing projects. The instructions include two techniques: direct fabric marking (with visible stitches) and invisible stitches. Both are general guidelines and not step-by-step instructions. You can choose these techniques or any other that you consider suitable based on your experience and preference. There are no refunds for the digital file. We appreciate your understanding and are available for any questions." This demonstrates to me that the pictures are not accurate because they are clearly attempting to depict FPP and are hoping that you won't read the description until it is too late.
- Why is every lowercase i in the wolf pattern missing its dot? Like, why? I find that strange and off putting.
So, how do you avoid accidentally purchasing a pattern like this?
The first step is gaining experience in recognizing listings that seem a bit fishy. Use the bullet points listed above to see what kind of feeling you get when looking over a listing. I also recommend finding out more about the designer from their website or from their social media. Not all legitimate designers have these necessarily, but it's a great place to start. Try messaging the shop owner on Etsy. Does it sound like they know what they are even talking about? You'll then build a good list of designers and shops you trust.
A big and worrisome thing to remember is that AI will only get better and produce better looking images. This will make it harder to identify pattern mills by the image alone. However, the clues that I've listed will help if you put them all together and come to a conclusion. I suggest using them for all your online shopping. I hope this helps!
27 comments
Very eye opening, thank you
Thanks for taking the time to write this! This is super helpful information to have when shopping for new FPP templates – and something I hadn’t considered before.
Very informative and helpful. I had no idea this was a thing! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for this. I don’t quilt, but I sew, knit, crochet and weave, and I have noticed a huge increase in AI publications. Amazon is full of books about the crafts I follow with different but similar names, and weird authors’ names. Etsy is full of overly cheap patterns. I have a general rule not to look at a pattern which is suspiciously cheap, even though there are a few indies there who really charge low prices and are good, and human. I was bitten though – I bought a pattern for a pair of loose leggings without a side seam, and it didn’t have one single marking on it. No grain or GOTS, nothing. The owner replied to me saying that her patterns were cheap for this reason, and eventually she would put grain lines! So probably a human with a stolen pattern that had been wiped.
I had just posted a comment but have since checked out my pattern purchase. It is AI generated. That part that says it is in description that was in light blue is in this pattern on line in Etsy. Oh my, glad I didn’t spend too much but have learned a valuable lesson. Did not even realize I had to worry about patterns like this. Sheesh.
Thanks again for blog.